“See you tomorrow, Thailand”
Queen Mother Sirikit’s eyes
Oversee
The Siam Sea
And evolution of Thailand’s history.
Her face is framed in gold –
Her story still told;
An earthly echo
Hummed on highways,
Breathed in night bazaars,
Carried by the cars
Of Bangkok
To Chang Rai.
Her eyes glitter in the violet sky
And wink goodbye
As I fly
Back to Shanghai,
Just as she,
Sirikit Kitiyakara,
Nods farewell
To spirits with stories to tell
Who passed before the birth
Of Ayutthaya.
Leopards line
Low lying tables
Littered with Khao man gai,
Pork pad Thai,
Beef krapow,
And stir-fried ‘morning glory’;
A saucy
Sunrise story.
Summer’s hazy twilight,
In Thailand,
Descends
Upon the Khlong Saen Saep canal
On a balmy Tuesday evening
In Bangkok.
The only sounds are that of singing
Cicadas,
Chiming chopsticks etched into the empyrean,
And the gentle clatter
Of clothes hangers –
Beckoning the closure of textile markets
Until dawn
When life will be reborn
On these still,
Sub-urban streets.
Encased in amber glass,
Leo lager glows
Above “The Beach”;
A delirious
Non-sober
Dystopia
Free from Singha beer
And the intoxicating allure
Of chilled Chang.
A home to hallucinogenic
Hysteria,
Fear,
And covert cultivated
Calm –
Not far from Phuket
And Thailand’s
Islands
Of psychedelic sands.
Stillness is passively summoned
At the Smile Inn
3.4km from Tom Yum Kung
On Khao San Road,
Host to Tic-Tok hotels
And discos at dusk;
Usurped by bars
And the tantalising traffic of tourists
Crazed on cocaine
As though cars
Ferociously manoeuvring the M25
During rush hour
In a bid to feel alive.
Yet here,
Red bulbs await
Night’s nebulosity.
Barks break Bangkok’s
Strangely silent summer evening
And whilst children retreat to bed,
Laptops illuminate
Sleeping steel roofs
That stand ready to weep
In winter’s wrought iron rain.
***
The piercing projection of Asian Koel
Carefully creeps into Kanchananburi’s
Historically upsetting scaffolding
Built upon the Si Sawat.
Speaking seems violent;
An offence
Against
Thailand’s evasion
Of colonial invasion.
A Korat
Cat
Yawns –
Ready to wake with Saturday’s slumbering dawn.
Violins vibrate
Piercing the cacophony
Of cicadas
Lulling life to sleep.
Songs from the Sukhothai Empire
Re-surface in local lullabies -
A coalescence of lore and lies;
Fables founded through ancient family ties
And the cries
Of ancestors
Sculpted in Kanchananburi’s
Memory;
A cemetery
For plagued prisoners of war
That walked these streets years before –
Bridging divides
Between Thailand and where Burma resides.
***
Arid eyes glisten in
Reflections emerging from
Chilled bottles of Chang
After an exodus of inebriated
Bodies
Bustling
Through Chang Mai;
A city,
Tipsy
On the tranquillity of temples
And Hackney-esque vegan vagabonds
Sipping kiwi-cannabis juice
Feeling loose
In the strident light
Of lunchtime on Nimmanhaemin Road.
Cafes and craft
Summon sojourners to this city
Of soul
And sought after solitude.
The end of sobriety
Elevates the Old Town’s sedate state
As barefoot
And nose-pierced persons
Meet
To eat
Mao buns
Stuffed with
Lemongrass and chilli
Tofu larb.
A plant-based day
Is replaced
By famished carnivores,
Fatigued from an alcohol election ban,
Who now surface to fulfil cravings
For delectable death
Served in the depths
Of every street
Where the sweet scent of meat
Waits patiently for the afternoon heat
To pass.
Steam rises from a crab’s corpse
Up into an enlightened ether;
An ephemeral realm
Where ribs roasted
In honey lie,
And a pulverised pigeon
Breathes yet another sigh
Upon greeting those from Sukhothai;
The 'dawn of happiness'.
Grease-coated Peking duck,
Briny-battered shrimp
And the limp
Limbs of starved life
Are served aside cheap alcohol
In spirit-saturated coconut bowls.
Thus,
Delinquency and
Debauchery
Dance
In a whimsical waltz
To the North Gate Jazz Co-Op,
Where trumpets foxtrot
And woes are wonderfully left to rot.
Such is Thailand’s tourist transgression
And an unmatched pacifist aggression
To feel alive.
***
“Sugar Cane” –
A loaded name
For a guest house
Swallowed again by cicadas,
Singha,
A mosaic of mouths,
And Mai Deng beams -
Brilliantly lit by luminescent lanterns
Hanging like orange oracles
Above the Khwa Yai River;
A slither
Of paradise.
‘Leon’ laughs.
This foreign sound
Fractures the rural town’s quietude.
“A feral cat”.
A US accent purports that this is
An alleged British trope
With semantic scope -
An expression unconfined
To those strictly defined.
Meanwhile a feral cat
Creeps around
The wood-panelled ground
Of “Sugar Cane”
In search for discarded
Dredges
Of duck dumplings.
And chicken feet dim sum.
Meanwhile, the sun
Evolves into a red jasper.
Light flickers throughout this cross-cultural
Non-colonised
Family-owned
Plantation
As though fireflies
From foreign lands
Twirling
And whirling
Together –
A tribute to the inability to severe
Thailand’s kingdom of kindness.
***
A pastoral painting
Elevated above the degenerative
Effects of enunciation,
Cannot be described.
It would feel wrong
To re-create the magic of Mae Kampong.
The painting moves
Amidst slowing
Soft time.
Awed gasps are uttered
By temporary travellers
Looking to find a space
That strived to survive 1767.
A suspension of syntax,
Of sound.
A celebration
Spoken in silence,
And found in solitude –
Integral to artistic independence.
Describing this art
Would be a written catastrophe
Shameful to the wonder of the Chakri Dynasty.
I will let the silent song
Of Mae Kampong
Simply
Be seen.
***
A lilac and grey
Sky-stitched blanket
Falls in a horizontal ombré
From Chang Mai’s sunless
Celestial sphere
At sunset.
Burning season
Secretes
An omnipresent textile factory
Between the sky
And Thai
Tributaries
In February -
Suffocating worldly wanderers
Whom seek to be infinitely free;
Within a songthaew step of
Kerouac’s stars –
As though ‘fabulous roman candles
Exploding like spiders’;
Life’s reckless riders –
Confiders
In cannabis-cultivated
Chaos
And calm.
Such are poetically poisoned people;
Thailand’s literary lifeblood.
Stalls line North Gate’s silhouetted Jazz Co-Op;
A house of echoes,
Where the memory of artists are etched into
The golden teakwood interior –
An accolade to saxophonist superiors:
Charlie Parker;
John Coltraine;
Wayne Shorter;
Hank Mobley;
And Cannonball Adderley –
The canons
Of booming jazz.
Here, blues whirl in time-transcending truths.
The screams of slaves
Sold in the Sakdina system pulse
Through the blood of the Baritone saxophone.
The trombone howls,
The pianist bows,
And the band
Begins to play
Until the ochre light of day
Awakens us
From our collective past
At long last –
Until tonight.
***
Worlds collide
In Chang Rai’s night bazaar.
The scent of fish sauce-soaked Pad Thai
And Pla thot with sticky rice
Slice
Through the north fresh air
As crazed tourists lay bare
Their feelings
For spices and potions
Painted
And plated
In north Thailand.
Gai lan
And garlic
Greet disembarking bodies
Full of anticipatory glee
From Terminal 3 –
Knowing that they will arrive
Thirsty
For food.
***
Bamboo bar-tables adorn
The River Kok.
A book is read on a stationary raft -
Catching a warm afternoon draught.
“So long,
See you
Tomorrow”.
The book closes as here,
Today starts tomorrow.
She takes a sip of cool beer.
Time stands still,
And the only noise arises from
The Mekong’s lapping tributary.
A timeless, transitory
Tranquillity
Pauses.
She pauses.
Everything stands still
Until
Tomorrow.
So, see you then
Thailand.
Wow Rhiannon, that must have taken hours and hours, so beautiful and atmospheric , bravo 🥰
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